Word from cruisers stopping at Marina Hemingway in Cuba: It's not only getting busy there, it’s getting to the point where reservations are going to be required.
The problem is getting in touch with anyone in Hemingway to take that reservation – it’s notoriously difficult to contact the marina by phone or email. Then, even if you do, it’s a good bet that your reservation won’t be honored should other boats come in before you arrive – assuming you get a weather window permitting you to leave as planned.
This is going to become a major issue in Cuba as more and more U.S. citizens start crossing over to visit this once forbidden country – finding space to dock your boat. There are four canals in Marina Hemingway, but not all of them have power and water. For that matter, the power issue itself is a challenging one. An electrician will come to your boat to hook you up. It’s not just a matter of plugging in – things aren’t quite to that standard there.
At this point, about the only way to get a chance at a reservation at Hemingway is by contacting someone staying there via email or through Facebook. My "Sailing and Cruising: Cuba" Facebook page is a great place to start – I monitor it continuously, and it is followed by many people currently cruising Cuba, offering a wealth of timely information.
The latest from Robbie Bargielowski, currently at Marina Hemingway: Right now there is everything docked here from a 25-foot sailboat to 165-foot megayachts. They are moving the junk further down Canal #1 to make more room. If placed correctly, they should have space for about another 30 boats. There are 4 megayachts tied up in Canal #3 at the moment (near the hotel pool and up towards the yacht club). I don't think they will use it for cruisers – maybe for the Miami-Hemingway race.
The one viable alternative to Hemingway is to dock at Marina Gaviota in Varadero, then visit Havana by taxi and stay at a casa particulara. Gaviota has hundreds of slips in a modern marina/resort facility, and Varadero has been a popular vacation spot for Canadians and Europeans for many years. Details on Marina Gaviota are in the new Waterway Guide edition Cuba Bound.
Cost of a cab between Gaviota and downtown Havana is about $120 CUCs in one of the old classic cars – an exciting way to do this trip. You could rent a car but you’d have the problem of parking it in Havana – it’s not worth the trouble, and the taxi will be much simpler and less expensive.
Expect to pay about $20 - $35 CUCs for a casa particulara, and $30 - $45 for a two bedroom facility. Breakfast will probably be offered, usually around $5 CUCs, and worth it.
Disfrute Cuba! (enjoy Cuba!).
Next week: How the Miami-Havana race will affect the occupancy at Marina Hemingway, and much more...
Check out the "Sailing and Cruising: Cuba" Facebook page to ask questions and get up-to-date information.