Beyond Long Island, sitting by themselves in the deep waters of the Atlantic, lie the remote islands of the southeastern Bahamas. These islands are generally only visited by the very adventurous or by travelers on their way to the Eastern Caribbean. They possess few safe harbors or marinas in general, but these far Out Islands make up for it with their isolated splendor.
Stretching south from Little Exuma Island are the tiny Jumentos Cays, which are perfect if you're looking to get away from it all for a few days. They are one of the last truly "off-the-grid" places left in The Bahamas. Most are uninhabited and you will likely only see other cruisers and some fishermen. At the end of the chain is the settlement of Duncan Town on Ragged Island.
Just to the west of Nuevitas Rocks, the Jumentos Cays and Ragged Islands are a great 75-nm arc of cays with the southernmost just 60 nm north of Cuba. Nuevitas Rocks at the start of the chain offer a safe pass between Great Bahama Bank waters and the ocean on that side for a straight run to Cuba. On the eastern side a chain of larger islands–Crooked, Acklins, Mayaguana and the Turks and Caicos–serve as stepping stones to and from the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, the Virgin Islands and the Caribbean.
Although geographically not part of the Exumas, if you want to do some real exploring before heading farther south, the Jumentos Cays and Ragged Islands are a much sought after notch on the bow for extreme sailing adventurers and are a dream destination. The islands provide shelling, fishing and diving in an area that remains largely untouched. The concentration of bonefish on the flats at Ragged Island is staggering.
From Little Ragged Island (latitude N 22° 10.000') these islands swing northeast toward Long Island ending 18 nm south of Little Exuma. They are bordered on the east by a pocket of deep ocean water north of the Columbus Bank and on the west by the southeast edge of the Great Bahama Bank.
Take note of your forecasted weather before you set out. (Anything of any force with a western, southern or northerly element is a no-go.) You must have a source for reliable weather information, preferably an SSB radio, as Internet and cell coverage will only be available near Duncan Town on Ragged Island. If a strong front is forecast, there are no anchorages with 360° protection. To seek protection you should be prepared to move as the wind shifts, which may be in the middle of the night. For protection from west and north winds you'll have to go all the way down to Buena Vista Cay, Raccoon Cay, Double Breasted Cay or Ragged Island.
As more cruisers seek more remote areas to drop the hook you can expect to have more company here but plan to be self-reliant. These islands are an unpopulated wilderness. You must be fully provisioned and fresh water independent before cruising here. There are minimal supplies in Duncan Town on Ragged Island. The entire population orders their own food for delivery by mailboat so there is little reason for the little store to stock goods.
And one last caution: All of the charts in your navigational tool kit are less accurate here (including Explorer Chartbook Exumas and Ragged Islands Charts RI 1-10). You must have good visual navigation skills and be very comfortable navigating Bahamian waters on your own to comfortably cruise these cays.
Water & Flamingo Cays
If you don't have much time, Water Cay and Flamingo Cay anchorages are doable in a few days trip. This fishing is superb here. Keep an eye out for brown and green bars as you make your way down to Flamingo Cay. Some are shallower or closer than charts and plotters indicate.
There is a trail to the gorgeous northern beach (with a crashed airplane). Look for the entrance at the far northern end of the beach, which is usually marked with dangling flip-flops. You'll walk along some underwater caves on the trail that are clearly linked to the sea. You'll find shrimp, small grouper and even trigger fish in their rocky-bordered waters.
Anchorages:
- Water Cay Southwest: Offers decent protection from the prevailing easterly winds without much surge. The first charted anchorage with the sandy beach and a single palm tree is the best. The water is deep and holding is good right up to shore. Just to the south of the anchorage is a spectacular cave to explore. You can even drive your dinghy in at low tide.
- Flamingo Cay-North Harbour: There is a trail to the gorgeous northern beach (with a crashed airplane). The approach must be from the north, giving the line of rocks on the west side of the anchorage a wide berth. There are large, uncharted underwater rocks. This anchorage is very rolly, even in settled conditions, but he beach is one of the prettiest in The Bahamas.
- Flamingo Cay-West Side: Has good depths but expect some surge.
Jamaica Cay to Hog Cay
Heading south from Double Breasted Cay or Raccoon Cay, vessels must venture several miles west to avoid the charted shoal extending out from Margaret Cay. To explore the chain farther south you need time, good weather and good charts. You'll soon learn how to time your moves when the Atlantic tidal surge is slacking. The exposure to the large seas rolling in from ocean depths when the wind opposes the tide can be brutal!
One of the nicest cruiser tiki bars in The Bahamas is on the beach just to the north of Hog Cay-Lobster Hole Point. There is a large covered area with tables and chairs, two fire pits (one for trash the other for BBQs) and an assortment of beach items and a book lending library.
Anchorages:
Jamaica Cay: There is some protection from westerly winds, but the holding is poor and there is a strong current and ocean swell.
Nurse Cay: The best spot. Off the small beach on the west side of the cay.
Nurse Cay-Little Curse Cay: Holding isn't much better but it offers some protection from the north and northeast.
Better anchorages can be found to the south. It's quite a haul to get to them but your effort will be rewarded.
Buenavista Cay-West: Anchor anywhere along the 1-mile-long beach in good holding with protection from the prevailing easterly winds in 2.7 to 3.7 meters/9 to 12 feet MLW.
Low Water Harbour Cay: If west or northerly winds are forecast, this anchorage has excellent holding with minimal current when out of the main channel. Anchor as close to shore as your draft permits. There are excellent reefs to explore around Low Water Cay and a beach to land a dinghy on Buenavista Cay.
Raccoon Cay: good anchorages with at least 2.4 meters/8 feet MLW and protection from prevailing easterlies in any of the bays along the western side of the cay.
Raccoon-Narin Cay: Good holding. The reefs in the cut between Raccoon and Narin are fantastic for snorkeling at slack water.
Johnson Cay: One of the prettiest anchorages in The Bahamas. When entering be mindful of the submerged rocks that extend well north off the western point. Once inside there is good holding all the way to the beach. Avoid anchoring near the reef in the western corner of the cove. This anchorage should not be considered if there is any northerly element to either the wind or seas as it's exposed to both. The scenery, solitude and beauty of this anchorage and cay will leave a lasting impression.
Hog Cay-Middle Pen Bay & Hog Cay-Lobster Hole Point: Both provide protection from the prevailing easterlies with good holding close to shore in sand. One of the nicest cruiser "tiki bars" in the Bahamas has been built on the beach just to the north of Lobster Hole Point. There is a large covered area with tables and chairs, two fire pits (one for trash the other for BBQs) and an assortment of beach "stuff." The area and cabana are maintained by the people from Duncan Town to promote good will. Cell reception is possible in these anchorages from the BTC tower in Duncan Town.
Ragged Island
Ragged Island is easily explored on foot as it only covers about 24 square km and is inhabited by around 80 people who mainly live in Duncan Town, the island's only settlement. The island contains a small air strip, a harbor and a lighthouse.
To access the town land your dinghy to the east of the small buildings on the beach along the north end of the bay. A short, marked path will lead to a dirt road. Turn right and head towards the BTC tower on top of the hill to the northeast. Along this road on the north side before reaching the airport runway is the dump for trash. Follow the dirt road around the runway after which it turns to pavement and walk approximately 0.75 mile to Duncan Town. It is possible for very shallow-draft vessels to access town via the narrow dinghy channel cut in the mangroves to the west.
Maxine's, a small store in Duncan Town, will accept orders for supplies to be delivered by the mailboat, which visits three times per month. Maxine's is located midway through the town on the east side of the main road. Visit or call (242-344-1526) and Maxine will give you an approximate date when the mailboat will arrive but do not count on receiving everything you request. It may be possible to get fuel in Duncan Town. Again, ask Maxine but don't count on it being available. As would be expected, fresh seafood is the main feature here including grilled and steamed fish (often grouper), conch dishes and lobster (in season). The restaurants are not open regularly, except on mailboat day and national holidays so call ahead.
For a good view, climb the Lighthouse Tower that was completed in 1922 to aid Ragged Island boats in transporting goods traded with Cuba, Haiti and Nassau. It featured a wooden mast that stood about 8 feet high with a hook for a lantern at the top and was visible from the western side only when in the harbor. Local sailors referred to it as "an old guidance stick" because it helped those at sea to find home. A storm has since split the wooden mast into two pieces, rendering it useless as a guide today. It does, however, offer a scenic view of the island from the top of the concrete staircase.
Pigeon Cay is visible off the coast of Ragged Island near Gun Point. The memorial cross you see was constructed in honor of Henry Norris Churton, Bishop of Nassau, who died at sea when his boat capsized on January 20, 1904.
Anchorages:
Ragged Island-Southside Bay: Located between Ragged Island and Little Ragged Island. Provides a large anchorage with good protection except from the south. Good holding can be found in sand or grass as close to shore as draft permits. This anchorage provides the easiest access to Duncan Town. (The government dock is located 2 miles to the north of town.)
Little Ragged Island-Coco Bay: Good holding and protection in to 1.5 to 2.4 meters/5 to 8 MLW from north through easterly winds.
Find more information on discovery the Ragged Islands of The Bahamas, with Waterway Guide's Bahamas Edition or a subscription to Bahamas Land & Sea in the Waterway Guide Mobile App.